Stick Sizes and Grip: What 5A, 5B and 7A Actually Change
Stick numbers are a weight and diameter code, and the differences that matter are smaller than the marketing suggests but bigger than most beginners expect. A 5
On this page
Stick numbers are a weight and diameter code, and the differences that matter are smaller than the marketing suggests but bigger than most beginners expect. A 5A is about 0.565 inches in diameter and 16 inches long; a 5B is the same length but thicker (0.595); a 7A is thinner (0.540) and usually shorter. That difference changes how much effort a stroke takes, which changes your endurance and, indirectly, your timing.
Diameter before length
A thicker stick puts more mass behind a stroke, so the same wrist motion produces more volume. If you play loud rock or hit hard for two hours, a 5B will keep you relaxed longer than a 5A because you need less motion. If you play jazz or light pop, a 7A lets you play quietly with control, which is harder with a heavy stick.
Length matters for reach and for the stick's balance point. A longer stick gives more leverage and moves the balance point forward, which makes fast rebound strokes easier — this is why many players use a longer stick for the ride hand and a standard one for the snare.
Tips: wood, nylon and shape
Wood tips give a warmer, slightly darker ride sound and a slightly softer snare attack. Nylon tips give a brighter, more defined cymbal ping and last longer, but they also produce a higher-pitched click that some players dislike on the snare. Acorn-shaped tips (the common default) are versatile; round tips give a more focused, drier cymbal sound; barrel tips sit between.
For a first pair, choose acorn wood tips. Once you know what you want from your ride — more definition or a darker wash — the tip is the cheapest way to change it.
Matched grip: five checks
- The stick lies along the first crease of the palm, not across the fingers. 2) The thumb rests against the side of the index finger, roughly opposite the first knuckle. 3) The back fingers are closed but not tight: you should be able to slide the stick out with mild resistance. 4) The wrist is straight — a bent wrist loses rebound and eventually hurts. 5) Both hands hold identically. Most grip problems are a difference between hands rather than a fault in one hand.
Play a slow single stroke roll (see the 40 BPM drill) and watch for the thumb lifting off the stick at high stroke heights; that is the first sign the grip is being abandoned under effort.
When to replace sticks
Inspect the shoulder and the tip weekly. A chipped tip will damage heads and produces a buzzing ride sound. A shoulder that is splintering will fail mid-song, and it usually fails during a loud passage. Retire a stick when the tip is chipped, when the shoulder has a splinter longer than a few millimetres, or when the stick has been warped by heat (check by rolling it on a flat surface).
Match weight within a pair — a difference of more than about 4 grams is noticeable in fast playing, and cheap sticks are usually sold unmatched. Take a small scale to the shop if you buy in bulk.
What to hold on to
- Diameter sets effort: 7A quiet control, 5A general, 5B loud endurance
- Nylon tips = brighter ping and longer life; wood = warmer and softer attack
- Grip check: stick on the palm crease, thumb against the index side, back fingers closed not tight
- Retire a stick when the tip chips, the shoulder splinters, or the stick is warped — and match a pair within ~4 grams